May 21st, 2014
In the morning we stopped off at the beautiful Tam Giang lagoon and ate prawns freshly caught and cooked in garlic. Then we headed to the historical Hoi An. Once settled at our hotel, we walk to the old town. Very pretty with it’s many old Japanese merchant houses which are now tailor shops and bars/restaurants. More temples, pagodas and the lovely little Japanese bridge (built in the 1590’s) which I sketched whilst sipping coconut milk. It’s a modern day icon of Hoi An and even features on the 20000Dong note.
It’s much more laid back here compared with the hustle and bustle of Hanoi and Hue and so we hire a moped. Was great heading to the beach and rice fields. Also drove by the riverside which was once a port. I sketched the pretty buildings and boats lining the river. Also enjoyed sitting at the bars having a cold beer and occasional cocktail.
May 19th, 2014
I particularly enjoyed a group guided tour by dragon boat stopping off to visit local Pagodas and Temples. We visited An Hien Garden House, a beautiful old traditional Vietnamese house with a pond at the entrance. Only spent a few minutes here and quickly sketched the Pagoda. Interesting objects and colours with incense sticks burning, candles and photos of the family’s ancestors. Was v rushed and had to dash to catch the boat.
We moved onto the Thien Mu Pagoda and the Guardian statues at the Tomb of Khai Dinh caught my eye so I did a couple of sketches.
Back at the hotel before freshening up, I sketched the view from the window.
May 14th, 2014
After returning to Hanoi we take the sleeper train to Hue. We share with a French couple and . . . a mouse!
‘“Alarme! Alarme! Souris’!” arriving in Hue 13 hours later. (Fortunately we were on the top bunks)
Hue is a charming and picturesque city located on the Perfume River. The old city and the famous Citadel is situated on the north side and the newer city, including bars, restaurants and hotels on the south side. We walked to the Citadel in the afternoon with the sound of the crickets ringing in our ears. It was extremely hot. Most people were sensible and were at home and asleep! We sat in the shade and I sketched a pretty house.
Around the corner from the Citadel is the Royal Antiquities Museum. The beautiful interior of Long An Palace houses nearly 10,000 antiquities including clothing and ceramics relating to life during the Nguyen Dynasty (1802-1945). In the garden we sat in the shade amongst the collection of cannons and statues.
May 7th, 2014
A walk to the Temple of Literature followed. During my stay I saw many pagodas and temples and this was one of my favourite locations. The traditional Vietnamese architecture is very striking. It was built in 1070 by Emperor Ly Thanh Tong and the temple is dedicated to Confucius ( khong Tu) It honours Vietnams top scholars and whilst there, hundreds of graduates were celebrating. We walked through the lovely gardens and water features. Friendly atmosphere. Even ended up having photos taken with the graduates. I found a quiet spot to sketch the pretty bell pagoda.
May 7th, 2014
Always enjoy a gallery/museum visit and the Fine Arts museum has a good display of ancient Vietnamese stone carvings and paintings. Some really good drawings and prints too. Many depicting scenes from French colonial days.
I liked the simplicity of this woodcut ‘Parade’ by Hang Trong. Depicting French national fete day.
Also Tran Van Cams ‘ buidling a bridge’ drawing from 1954.
May 2nd, 2014
I’ve spent a great 2.5 weeks in Vietnam.
First stop Hanoi. Enjoyed exploring the city on foot. So many mopeds! Driving is crazy and there are few traffic lights. Even when there are don’t assume anyone will stop! Slowly but surely is the way to go.
We weave around the traffic and sit down on tiny plastic red stools next to a tiny plastic table where our drinks order is placed. Coffee with a small jug of condensed milk – an acquired taste! Meanwhile a fruit seller wearing a conical hat passes and I quickly sketch her before she disappears behind parked mopeds. Then whilst sipping the very sweet coffee I sketch two men seated next to us enjoying a drink and a catch up whilst on their mobile phones.
Hanoi, the capital of Vietnam, is a great city. It still retains the charm of it’s past. It’s most apparent in the Old Quarter with its many monuments including temples and pagodas. We explore the markets in the old town with the amazing range of smells and food which stay open til the late hours. In the French Quarter I spot a flower seller sitting alone awaiting customers. Eventually another group join her. April is the harvest season for Lillies so there were many to be seen whilst I was there. Very pretty and nice to draw.
April 8th, 2014
I’ve just finished a new cafe linocut. The scene I composed from drawings I made in a coffee shop in Utrecht. This time when I printed the colour I tried the reduction method. So I worked on one piece of lino and printed 3 tones of cream/yellow and then two tones of grey. I’ve limited the edition to just 20. I really enjoyed the approach and will use it again for my next print.
April 1st, 2014
Another favourite city to visit in the Netherlands is Leiden. It’s particularly lively on Saturdays when the market is on. On this occasion I was here for a couple of hours mid week. I took a walk up the Burcht, an old 11th century stone keep built on top of a hill. There are lovely views over Leiden and a particularly good view towards the Pieterskerk. I enjoyed drawing the Gothic church with all it’s angles and the surrounding houses and skeletal trees.