I’ve just proofed a new linocut. I’ve referenced two drawings I made at a cafe in Hanoi. I wanted to bring together the best bits of each drawing. I really liked the patterns in the armchairs (looked quite Matissey to me) and the woman sitting by the window waiting for her friend to arrive. There was a musical theme evident with the many jazz records on the walls and an eye catching gramophone.
Really enjoyed sketching from the hotel balcony in Saigon. The balcony didn’t seem safe and I was high up so I sat indoors with the door open and light streaming in. Earlier the next morning at about 5am there were people doing tai chi in the square. A little early to do another sketch though! Last day and we sat in a cafe and I sketched the traffic and passers by for an hour or so. Could have stayed here all day drinking coffee and sketching. An amazing trip. I’d love to return! I’ll be exhibiting many of these drawings and more at the St Annes Gallery, Lewes in September. Will be updating blog with more info soon.
Whilst in Saigon we took a trip to the Mekong Delta. Fascinating seeing life along the river. Great to weave around the floating markets and watch the local traders and sample the amazing fruit. Passed rice paddies and fish farms and stopped off to watch the production of sugar cane sweets. I enjoyed sketching the traders and people preparing food.
We flew from Danang to Saigon for the last stage of our trip. Immediately struck by the energy of the city. After settling in at the hotel we happily get lost walking through the alleys, passing street stalls and locals going about their daily routine. The old city still in evidence when we pass museums, government buildings and temples. Western influence is more noticeable here in the form of cafes, expensive designer shops, skyscrapers, malls and hotels.
On our second day in the city, we took a long and hot bus trip to the Cu Chi tunnels. As we were on the bus for a few hours (each way) I thought I’d take the opportunity to sketch people on the move. Many on their mopeds. It got a bit bumpy at times but fun to draw.
In the morning we stopped off at the beautiful Tam Giang lagoon and ate prawns freshly caught and cooked in garlic. Then we headed to the historical Hoi An. Once settled at our hotel, we walk to the old town. Very pretty with it’s many old Japanese merchant houses which are now tailor shops and bars/restaurants. More temples, pagodas and the lovely little Japanese bridge (built in the 1590’s) which I sketched whilst sipping coconut milk. It’s a modern day icon of Hoi An and even features on the 20000Dong note.
It’s much more laid back here compared with the hustle and bustle of Hanoi and Hue and so we hire a moped. Was great heading to the beach and rice fields. Also drove by the riverside which was once a port. I sketched the pretty buildings and boats lining the river. Also enjoyed sitting at the bars having a cold beer and occasional cocktail.
I particularly enjoyed a group guided tour by dragon boat stopping off to visit local Pagodas and Temples. We visited An Hien Garden House, a beautiful old traditional Vietnamese house with a pond at the entrance. Only spent a few minutes here and quickly sketched the Pagoda. Interesting objects and colours with incense sticks burning, candles and photos of the family’s ancestors. Was v rushed and had to dash to catch the boat.
We moved onto the Thien Mu Pagoda and the Guardian statues at the Tomb of Khai Dinh caught my eye so I did a couple of sketches.
Back at the hotel before freshening up, I sketched the view from the window.
After returning to Hanoi we take the sleeper train to Hue. We share with a French couple and . . . a mouse!
‘“Alarme! Alarme! Souris’!” arriving in Hue 13 hours later. (Fortunately we were on the top bunks)
Hue is a charming and picturesque city located on the Perfume River. The old city and the famous Citadel is situated on the north side and the newer city, including bars, restaurants and hotels on the south side. We walked to the Citadel in the afternoon with the sound of the crickets ringing in our ears. It was extremely hot. Most people were sensible and were at home and asleep! We sat in the shade and I sketched a pretty house.
Around the corner from the Citadel is the Royal Antiquities Museum. The beautiful interior of Long An Palace houses nearly 10,000 antiquities including clothing and ceramics relating to life during the Nguyen Dynasty (1802-1945). In the garden we sat in the shade amongst the collection of cannons and statues.
With all the exploring in the heat, having breaks and a drink
has been a necessity. I generally try and find a spot with a good view so if I get the urge I can draw. I find it really relaxing people watching and sketching.
Whilst in Hanoi we take a 4.5 bus journey to Halong Bay. The setting is beautiful despite the misty weather. We spend most of our time on top of the boat relaxing and admiring the distinctive limestone islets. Later we visit the caves and go kayaking. On return to our sleeping birth I thought the view from the cabin was interesting so sketched it. The rest of the day was spent enjoying great sea food and attempting to catch squid at night time. The following day we took a trip up the river to the floating markets.